Thai Dishes, Cherished And Rare, At Playground In Woodside, Queens

Sudarat Yingyong opened Playground as half restaurant, half karaoke bar in 2010 with her husband, Sompoch Siribongkoch.
It’s a homey, beloved Isan dish, rarely seen in the restaurants of New York.
On a typical day, she comes in at 5 p.m. and stays until the doors close at 4 a.m.
They deflate softly in the mouth, somewhere between a squish and a pop, tasting faintly of the mango leaves their parents once fed on.
(He had first staked a claim on the block in 2005 with the acclaimed Zabb next door.

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